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We begin at the Honginjimun, popularly known as Dongdaemun or the East Great Gate of the 600-year-old Seoul Fortress. From there on this walking tour proceeds up the Naksan Ridge, eastern guardian of the ancient city, past a section of the old stone walls. It visits the Biu-dang residence of a Joseon Dynasty Yangban aristocrat who served as royal minister and then the Naksan Park which offers good views of this side of the metropolis. It finishes at the well-known and historic Ihwa-jang, preserved home of the Republic of Korea's first President, the late Syngman Rhee. It takes only about two hours to walk this interesting route. |
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| Dongdaemun (Honginjimun) |
 This walking course starts at the Honginjimun, the main eastern gate of the 600-year-old Seoul Fortress. It was originally constructed along with the rest of the Fortress from 1390-92, and has been reconstructed and repaired several times since, most recently after the devastation of the Korean War. Of all the gates of Seoul this one shows the very best original-style defensive fortifications – notice the complex passageway in front, designed to slow down any attackers so they would be easy targets for the archers on the second story. Also take note of the colorful Korean Taeguk design repeatedly painted on the wooden superstructure, a symbol representing the harmonious interaction of Heaven, Earth and Humanity.
Honginjimun is much more popularly known by the name Dongdaemun or the East Great Gate, and the huge Dongdaemun clothing market-complex that sprawls south of it is internationally famous as perhaps the biggest such market in the world. If you find that you don't have proper clothing, hats or shoes for your walking-tours of Seoul, this would be the perfect opportunity to pick them up at discount prices. |
| Seoul (Naksan) Fortress |
 Heading north from the Honginjimun Gate past the Ehwa Hospital, you will walk past a restored but authentic section of the Seoul City Wall, also known as the Seoul Fortress when its many gates are included. Built in a massive public project at the beginning of the Joseon Dynasty (starting in 1390), this stone wall averaging about 20 feet (6 meters) high encircled the entire city, providing protection from thieves and wild animals as well as military attacks. This part of the wall belongs to the section that reached north and then west from Honginjimun to the northern city gates (which are no longer extant). This city has grown far beyond its original fortress walls and gates, but interest in them as important historical architecture has been revived by proud Seoul citizens, and they are progressively being restored to their original splendor.
Related Info: http://english.seoul.go.kr/today/news/newsclip/1230150_3675.html |
| Biu-dang |
 During the reign of Great King Sejong (early 15th Century; he is depicted on the 10,000 won bill) this was the residence of a notable Yangban (member of the aristocratic class) named Yu Gwan, known to history by his pen-name “Hajeong”. Serving as a State Minister in the royal court, he was a leading participant in the reformist Neo-Confucian movement of that time dubbed “the spirit of Chungbaek-ri.” Take a little time to look around this residence (restored in the late 20th Century) to get a good impression of Joseon Dynasty aristocratic architecture, and the lifestyle of its residents. Nearby this house there is a spring called “Jajudong” which was once famous for its clean and clear waters. |
| Naksan Park |
 This course next brings you up to Naksan Park, a lovely patch of nature in the midst of the crowded city that offers some fine views. The ancient fortress-city of Seoul was laid out according to the traditional Pungsu-jiri-seol theories, which were adapted to Korea's circumstances by National Buddhist Master Doseon-guksa in the 9th Century from the principles of ancient Oriental Geomancy (called Feng Shui in Chinese; see http://www.san-shin.net/Pungsu-jiri.html for details of this). In this system, an important city (especially the capital of the kingdom) should have protective mountains to its north, south, east and west, which are considered sacred and can ideally be connected by a stone wall to make a secure fortress. The site for Seoul has excellent such mountains on its north, south and west, but no real mountain on the east. Therefore this ridge, given the traditional Buddhist name Naksan (mountain where the Bodhisattva of Compassion resides), came to serve as the sacred eastern guardian (which left the east as the weakest part of Seoul's defenses). There is an Exhibition Hall of cultural artifacts located in this park. |
| Ihwajang |
 This “Pear Blossom Manor” was the home of the first President of the Republic of Korea, named Lee (or Yi) Seung-man but best known to global history by his own adopted spelling Syngman Rhee. He was a dedicated fighter for Korean independence against the Japanese imperialists a century ago, and then spent decades in exile in the United States, diplomatically lobbying for American support for Korea's cause. Becoming a fervent Protestant Christian, he married the daughter of an Austrian Ambassador. When Korea was Liberated in 1945 he was able to return to this house in Seoul, and quickly became a leader of the conservative political forces. Upon the creation of the Republic of Korea under auspices of the United Nations, he was elected as its first President in August 1948. He led the nation bravely through the devastation of the 1950-53 Korean War and then the reconstruction era that followed it. Public discontent with the political and economic corruption of his administration led to his forced retirement in 1960, when he fled to exile in Hawaii. After his passing away in 1970 his wife returned to this residence and continued to live there until her own passing in 1992. Their home was restored as a public exhibition hall of artifacts related to his life and presidency in 1988, and is fascinating for all those interested in Korea's modern history.
Related Info: http://hifromseoul.blogspot.com/2005/05/eehwajang-home-of-president-syngman.html |
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